Are you wanting to wear Western clothes, but unsure where to start? Let me explain how to get into Western fashion without having to feel like you’re dressing up as a cowboy.
Western wear is surging in popularity and is now commonly found in all parts of the world, not just the Western US.
Even as the style has gone more mainstream, it can be intimidating to get into. There is a large culture around Western clothing, and it can be hard to know the rules and styles that go along with wearing them.
I am here to assure you that even though there are some subtleties and things to learn about Western clothing, it’s not over your head.
Even if you are not a cowboy or don’t know how to ride a horse, there are elements of Western clothing that could be just right for you.
What Did Men Wear in the Wild West? Stories of My Ancestors
All of my father’s ancestors settled in Western America during the 19th century. One was the very first person to plow in what later became the state of Utah.
We’re lucky to know the names and stories of our ancestors going back hundreds of years. Even as a small child, I loved hearing stories of the Wild West escapades of my 2nd, 3rd, and 4th great-grandparents.
There are tales of crossing the plains in ox-pulled wagons to escape religious persecution. Then, when they reached their destination, they experienced a miraculous deliverance from a swarm of crickets that threatened to eat their entire crop. Some built sod huts to make it through the winter.
They faced challenges I can only imagine.
One thing that I’ve noticed is that whenever clothing is mentioned in their journals is that what they wore was practical (even if it doesn’t seem like it from our modern point of view).
Long pants and long sleeves protected against the scorching sun during the day and provided warmth at night.
Boots were essential as well, providing stability and traction while serving as a barrier from water and mud.
All the men wore hats in those days. They were the only way to stay protected from the sun. However, the types of hats varied widely. No matter the variety, hats were highly valued by their owners.
We have a photo of my great-great-grandfather wearing what appears to be a Western-style shirt and overalls while standing next to a deer he shot when he was 90.
A different great-great-grandfather was, at various times, a farmer, a homesteader, a prohibition agent, an officer for the Fish and Wildlife Department, and the owner of a construction and hauling company.
Needless to say, he was a rough-and-tumble kind of guy. He dressed practically for the outdoors.
This photo, which I’d guess was taken around 1920, shows him wearing overalls with a belt, a Western shirt, and a cowboy hat.
By sharing a bit about the history of Western clothing, I hope I’ve convinced you that this clothing style is very practical.
Where Did Western Wear Come From in the First Place?
Belt buckles, cowboy hats, Western shirts, and cowboy boots — where exactly did these items come from? How did what began as a style confined to places like rural Utah become mainstream?
As you would likely guess based on the name, Western wear did indeed originate in the Western United States.
Many people, not just my family, in the Old West worked on farms, raised cattle, and had horses for work and transportation.
Since most people worked outdoors in the harsh desert elements, a style of clothing began to emerge from the region. This style is what we now refer to as “Western style”.
Horses were a huge part of the Western way of living, and a shoe that could help give a more secure ride was needed. Vaquero-style boots had been used since the 1600s in Spain, and in the early 1800s, they were brought by pioneers to the West.
Hours of hard work in the sun called for a durable and practical hat. So, in 1865 hatmaker John Stetson created the first cowboy hat.
His “Boss of the Plains” hat, is still worn today by many ranch workers and cattle farmers. The hat was different because of its tall crown and wide brim, which protected the person wearing it from the blazing heat of the sun.
Around 1940, Western movies began to take America by storm. Figures such as John Wayne, Clint Eastwood, and James Stewart became household names. As the movies showcased the unique Western style and fashion many people began incorporating that style into their lives.
Hats that people used to wear purely for sun protection began to be worn for their style alone. Cowboy boots that were once found only on horseback were incorporated into other styles of work. These cowboy films made the cowboy look approachable and desirable to those in all kinds of cultures.
Today, Western wear is prevalent in many places outside of the “Wild West”. From office jobs to construction sites, it’s common to see clothing you would spot in a black-and-white classic cowboy film.
What Items Are Considered “Western”?
There are many items that fall into the category of “Western wear”. Here are some of the first things that come to mind when you think of cowboy apparel.
Cowboy Boots
Cowboy boots are an essential part of any Western outfit. They can serve as sturdy work boots for the toughest jobs, or casual boots to wear for a night out on the town.
A cowboy boot is made with a tall shaft that rises up the calf and is worn under the pant leg. This protects the leg from brush passing by while working or riding.
This shaft meets the bottom of the boot at the heel, which is usually raised in order to fit into a stirrup. This gives the person riding a horse a higher sense of stability and control.
The first cowboy boots were used for riding horses. While this is still the case, don’t be intimated — you don’t have to use the boots to ride a horse.
There are many different styles and types of cowboy boots for different purposes. Some are more geared towards work while others are made for casual wear. Check out this guide to find what boot is right for you and your needs.
In general, there are three main types of boots. There are boots for riding horses, work, and style.
Horse riding boots will have a taller heel that will help the heel fit into a stirrup better. These boots also will have less traction on the sole than other boots.
Work boots are the most durable boot type. A lot of them have a steel toe in the front, and they will have a lot of traction on the bottom of the sole.
Dress boots in the cowboy style are known for being made out of exotic leathers. Crocodile, ostrich, and snakeskin are just a few materials used. They are usually less durable than other types of boots.
Bolo Ties
Bolo ties, while not essential, are an excellent way of putting a little Western spin on your outfit.
A bolo tie is a metal clasp that is usually adorned with a gem or rock and is tightened around the neck using a cord. It can be worn tight like a necktie, or loose like a necklace.
A simple substitute for a standard necktie, a bolo tie puts a little more flavor into your casual or formal attire.
Here’s how to wear them.
Belt Buckles
While most belt buckles are a sort of trophy that is won at competitions and rodeos, they can also be a great addition to your Western look. The big, detailed emblems found on belt buckles are coveted in any Western culture.
Most Western buckles don’t come with a belt. You will have to get a belt that is compatible with a belt buckle and replace the standard buckle with your big shiny one.
For a full guide on how and when to wear western buckles, check out this article.
Cowboy Hats
Cowboy hats are the staple of Western clothing. There is so much culture and pride that goes into owning a hat.
A cowboy hat is a wide-brimmed hat with a generally tall crown. Some brims will roll up on the side, while others are flat.
There are many different types and styles of hats. The easiest way to separate cowboy hats is between straw and felt hats.
Straw hats are made for work and being in the sun since they are lighter and more breathable. Felt hats, on the other hand, are made for being worn in colder weather, as they are made of a warmer material.
Western Shirts
Western shirts are button-down shirts with pockets over the chest. Some of them have intricate designs stitched or printed on the shirt, while others are kept very simple.
All Western shirts have a collar, and the decision to button up the top button depends on you and the situation you are wearing it in. Pairing a Western shirt with a bolo tie will give you the full Western experience.
Western shirts can be made out of a variety of materials, but the most common are chambray or denim. They are made to be a bit thicker than your average t-shirt to protect you from the sun and elements.
Another staple of the Western shirt is pearl snap buttons. Snaps, instead of four-hole buttons, ensure that if a shirt gets snagged on something, it will simply unbutton instead of tearing off the buttons. Pearl button facings are simply a decoration.
You can wear Western shirts casually, they’re not just for rodeos or on the ranch. There are even some simple Western shirts that can be a good business-casual option.
When Can I Wear Western Clothing?
Western clothing is much more versatile than to be only worn at cowboy-themed parties. Here are a couple of places to wear western clothes.
Western Clothing for Work
As my ancestors knew well, Western apparel was originally made to help conquer the heat and elements. This style fits very naturally to be worn while working in the sun.
Construction sites are known for having uneven surfaces, loose nails, and heavy machinery. In these conditions, flip-flops and shorts won’t cut it.
Cowboy boots are a great fit for work sites, as they are durable and many come equipped with steel toe. They are sure to keep your feet more protected than casual
Cowboy hats and western shirts can be a great fit on work sites, as they protect your face and body from the sun. (Even if cowboy hats aren’t quite OSHA-approved.)
They are also made to be lightweight, so they are mostly breathable. Perfect for a hot day outside!
They aren’t reserved for official construction sites if you need an outfit for mowing the lawn or working out in your yard, cowboy boots, hats, and shirts are sure to protect you from the elements while helping get your work done.
Wearing Western Clothing Casually
Wearing cowboy boots or shirts during your daily activities can be a nice touch. Whether it is a night out, a day at school, or rolling into the office — all could benefit from some Western spice.
The first step to a nice casual western outfit is a nice pair of jeans. Wranglers or Carhartts are both solid options, but any other brand will work as well.
If you are new to Western apparel, it is important to not overdo it. For this reason, after you have your jeans on, I would recommend wearing only one of the items listed above as “Western wear”. If you don’t want to scroll, those include — cowboy boots, hats, bolo ties, belt buckles, and Western shirts.
The reason I recommend only wearing one is because if you overdo it with too much, it could look like you are trying to dress up as a cowboy. You don’t want to look like you’re wearing a costume.
Once you are more comfortable wearing one piece of western wear at a time, you’ll understand better what to match with it, and then you can start wearing multiple at a time without risking the “cheesy” look.
Dressing Up Western Wear
This may surprise some people, but Western clothing can put a nice spin on your more formal attire. Unless you are attending a formal Western event such as a wedding, you will want to be very careful about how you do so. Too much Western in your formal dress and it will appear as dressing down your outfit.
The simplest Western items to wear with formal attire without it being “too much” are cowboy boots. Simply find a belt that matches the color of your boots, and wear your slacks or dark jeans over them. It can be subtle but is a nice touch.
Bolo ties can be a great addition to smart casual wear. They can go in place of a standard necktie, tightened up to the collar and snug against the neck. Although they look very nice, it should be noted that they are generally considered less formal than a standard necktie.
You should avoid Cowboy hats in almost every formal-leaning setting other than Western-themed weddings and Western dances. That said, if you’ve spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on a thoroughbred racehorse, you get a pass.
A bolo tie, boots, or belt buckle can be worn with a suit in less formal settings. Notice that I used the word “or”, as you do not want to wear all of them at the same time. Take note that all of these stand out from a suit, which is why you don’t want too many and you want to choose them intentionally.
In general, wearing Western clothing with a suit or other formal wear should be done very carefully. It is not always a match and should be thought out before so as to not dress down your outfit.
My bishop (i.e. pastor) here in Utah is a cattleman. He wears a suit on Sunday but always wears nice, clean cowboy boots and sometimes a Western-style belt buckle. It’s all pretty subtle but is a great way to show his individuality while wearing a suit.
Three Things to Avoid When Wearing Western Clothing
Here are three common mistakes that people make when getting into Western clothing.
Mistake #1: Wearing Pant Legs Inside of Boots
When wearing pants with boots, the pants should always go over the boots. Tucking pants into your boots should only be done if you are protecting your pants from getting dirty for a time.
To wear jeans with boots, you will need pants that have a wider cut at the bottom so that they fit over your boots. You will probably want to buy them a bit longer as well so that the bottom of the pant leg rests at the top of your foot.
Mistake #2: Wearing Cowboy Hats Inside
Cowboy hats have some unspoken etiquette that varies across different regions. One rule that is pretty universal is to take them off while inside.
The only exceptions to this are dances and other Western events.
Mistake #3: Wearing Other People’s Trophy Buckles
One of the main purposes of belt buckles is to serve as a trophy or reward for rodeos and horse competitions. If you find a buckle of this sort, don’t wear it unless you, or a family member, was the one that won it. It’s kind of like “stolen valor” — just don’t do it.
And don’t worry, there are buckles that are not trophy buckles for people who didn’t win them.
FAQ
Here are answers to some questions that I’ve heard asked about Western wear.
If I don’t currently own any Western apparel, where should I start?
In my opinion, cowboy boots are the gateway to Western apparel. They are not quite as flashy as other Western apparel but still make you feel and show that Western spirit.
Where do I get my Western wear?
Cowboy hats and boots are highly recommended to be tried on in person before purchase. You’ll save yourself a lot of trouble if you do. If you just look up “Western clothing” on Google Maps, it will show the local spots that are close to you (assuming you live in the US).
Bolo ties, shirts, and buckles can safely be bought online. There are a variety of online shops, and even custom shops to fit your need.
So… I don’t have to be a Cowboy to wear Western Clothes?
Nope. You don’t have to be a cowboy to wear Western clothes. Even though it started out in the West, that doesn’t mean it has to stay there.
Anyone can wear Western Clothing, and, as long as they’re well thought out, Western elements can add a lot to your wardrobe. Don’t be shy, go out and get those boots.
What other regional style do you want us to cover? Let us know in the comments!
