So, you’ve decided to pull the trigger and enter the world of made to measure suits. Congratulations! This is definitely ‘Suiting 201’, and this world is indeed your oyster.
I’ve compiled what I hope is a complete guide made to measure suiting. I’ll cover what it is and what it’s not. I also include some things to expect if you’re doing made to measure suiting in person vs. online.
I’ll also consider some made to measure suit brands at a range of price points, documenting my personal experience where applicable and reference if I’ve not tried the brand directly.
What Is Made To Measure Suiting?
What, exactly, is a made to measure suit? And, how is it different from custom or bespoke suiting?
While Brock, founder of this website, has an in-depth piece covering the differences between the types of suits, it is worth briefly revisiting.
The definition of made to measure is a broad and pretty grey area. What’s important to understand at the outset is you are being fit into an existing pattern. This is usually based on US/EU suit sizing (S, R, L) and, perhaps, a body type — slim, regular, etc.
This is why most places, especially online, will ask for your off-the-rack suit size. Your suit is sewn according to your specs, yes, and with all the details you’ve requested, but ultimately, you’re getting a suit made around you and not for you.
This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. As you’re operating on a much smaller scale, you’ll often get a much larger fabric selection. Many companies have hundreds, if not thousands, available.
Paradox of choice aside, you have the ability to get what you’re looking for. Additionally, you’ll be able to pick styling details on a variety of different parts of the suit — buttons, lining, etc.
Second, while you are being measured to fit (largely) into an existing pattern, the chances of getting a good fit are far better in made-to-measure suiting than going off-the-rack. I happen to stand between 5’7” and 5’8” and wear a 39 US jacket.
That’s right, a 39. Most 38s are too narrow across the shoulder, but 40 is too puddly to take in comfortably.
Few brands actually make this size off the rack. At my height, many regular jackets are definitely too long, but some short jackets are too short. I need the ability to customize my fit, and made-to-measure can deliver… some of the time.
This is an important caveat. Made to measure is not bespoke, and more than likely, it’s going to take a few tries to get it right. I’ve been through a number of MTM experiences, and only a few have been truly ‘right.’
So, temper your expectations. It often takes a few times with a MTM brand for them to truly to dial in your fit and preferences.
Besides “made to measure”, before buying a suit it’s good to know what “off the rack”, “custom”, and “bespoke” really mean.
Off the Rack
An off-the-rack, or ready-to-wear, suit is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a suit you can, theoretically, walk into a shop, purchase, and walk right out without alteration. (The truth is you’ll almost always need alterations of some kind.)
They’ll come in short, regular, and long, usually between 36 and 52. However, you can sometimes find smaller or bigger sizes as well. Trousers, of course, come in a variety of lengths and widths, too.
OTR vs Custom Suiting
A custom suit is, first, and foremost, anything altered. The definition of “custom”, though, is somewhat nebulous.
You could walk in J.Crew, pick up a flagship Ludlow model in a 38 Short. After nipping the waist, shortening the sleeves, and hemming the trouser line, you’ve got a custom suit.
It hasn’t been made for you, but it’s still technically customized. You can find a designer suit going to many thousands even off the rack. Buying OTR is usually the quickest and most cost-effective option if you’re looking for a suit.
That said, many made to measure brands advertise that they sell “custom suits”. This term applies, even if MTM is more accurate.
Bespoke Suiting
On the complete opposite end of the spectrum is bespoke suiting. This is where highly trained craftsmen take a series of highly precise measurements, covering the unique contours and posture of your body.
A paper pattern is then cut (and, if you happen to be on Saville Row in London, stored on file for many decades) according to those measurements.
A garment takes shape in the chosen cloth while held together with the famous white thread. The client then comes into the shop, and adjustments are made to this basted garment to dial in the fit.
A second fitting happens a few weeks later. There may be a few more basting threads, but for the most part, at this point, it’s beginning to look like an actual suit.
Further adjustments are made.
The client returns a few weeks after for a third, usually, final fitting where the ‘loose threads’ (sorry) are ‘sewn up’ (okay, sorry again…). Now, the suit is largely complete. When both tailor and client are satisfied, the client receives his bespoke suit.
What To Expect at a Made To Measure Appointment
Speaking of expectations, the way I see it, there are three types of MTM experiences: entirely digital, digital/virtual, and in-person. I’ll be generalizing, but it should give a decent overview of what to expect.
Digital
This is, as you might surmise, conducted entirely online. There are a few sub-paths here.
One option allows you to draw up a profile of yourself using body measurements. While, in theory, you could do it yourself, having another person is best. Ideally, a professional tailor.
Once you have a profile to work off, you’ll use it for future commissions. Another option allows you to see the actual measurements of your garment.
This is what I prefer, as I don’t know various manufacturer tolerances for ‘slim’ vs fuller cut pieces. This does require a little more advanced knowledge and some trial and error, though. A fabric like linen will adapt to a closer cut than wool.
Once you’ve plugged in your measurements, the fun begins.
Much of this really depends on the brand’s technology. At a minimum, you’re able to choose the key elements.
For the jacket: single or double-breasted, lapel width, lapel style, number of buttons, pocket style, and a lining. Brands with ultra-slick rendering engines will actually adapt and show you the changes in real-time.
Many don’t dedicate the same effort to trousers. You’ll be able to choose a waistband (belt loops or side tabs), pleated or flat front trousers, an option for brace buttons, a button or zip fly, and the size of your cuff.
Virtual
This is an interesting hybrid method. Some brands, like Proper Cloth, ship you a ‘trial garment’ in a standard size to try on. You’ll then get on a video call with a fit specialist, dial in your specs, and build a garment around them.
This method is imperfect, but I’ve had fantastic experiences with specialists who know their stuff.
In many cases, the actual styling of the suit isn’t any different- you don’t unlock a secret bonus or anything. But, it can help to get another perspective.
More importantly, many of the companies with a virtual option will allow a remake of your first suit, especially if you get on video to show where to tweak.
In Person
Many made-to-measure companies operate entirely online, but some will have brick-and-mortar experiences. It should be no surprise I prefer this.
Sure, many of the locations have well-dressed sales professionals. Others used to offer you a beer (or something a little stronger) when you walked in, though I think that’s tightened up a little for a variety of reasons.
With a rare exception, you’ll get largely the same styling online as you would in person. But, my proclivity for in-person consultations comes down to fabric and fit.
First, I want the ability to feel the cloth swatch in my hand. Yes, many brands will send you a swatch, but it’s easier, when possible, to have a host of them at my fingertips.
Second, and more important, is fit. As I’ve discussed, made-to-measure is not bespoke. But to have someone else take your measurements and then make adjustments to a largely finished product is infinitely easier in person than behind a screen.
How Long Do Made To Measure Suits Take to Ship?
The timeline varies. Could be “as little as two weeks” and could be as long as eight. I’d budget at least three weeks, even if the brand says two.
If you’re going to the shop to get it done, consider at least a month, total, for your first one.
Don’t forget that even after receiving the garment, you may still need to get minor alterations.
How Much Do Made To Measure Suits Cost?
This is entirely dependent on the cloth. At the time of this writing, Hockerty will make you a ‘comfort stretch’ suit for as little as $299. Even if you’re on a serious budget, I’d recommend avoiding this kind of purchase.
The cloth is manufactured to hit a low price point and not only won’t drape well across your body, it won’t hold up.
Conversely, if you indulge in a luxurious Loro Piana or Scabal cloth, it’s easy to roll into several thousand dollars. That, to me, is too much for a MTM suit. Above $2,000-$2,500 (maximum), I’d consider simply going fully bespoke.
For me, though, $700 to around $1200 is a great sweet spot for a full suit. You’ll get world-class fabrics. A great rendering engine. And the ability to do a remake (in most cases) when that first go-round inevitably has a few issues that are probably, unfortunately, best addressed by a re-do.
As we’ve covered what made to measure means, what to expect, how long it takes, and how much it costs, let’s now consider some makers. I’ll provide commentary where I can, and reference internally if I don’t have relevant experience with the brand. Of course, this isn’t an exhaustive list, but we can certainly add as we go.
Indochino
The perennial elephant in the room, Indochino, is a mainstay of MTM. While they began online as a direct to consumer retailer, they have over 70 brick and mortar locations across the US, Canada, and Australia.
If you can’t get to one, measuring yourself is relatively simple. There’s even a (slightly suggestive) video guide.
Customization options are fairly standard, but they can do a soft and roped shoulder if you’d like. Side tabs, brace buttons, and a pleat for the pants, but it’s about as basic as it gets.
Fabric options are decent but not especially refined and can, in some cases, be rather loud. The cloth is ‘Australian merino wool’… but it doesn’t say much else.
Prices start at $499 and work their way up to just north of $600-but, there’s usually some kind of code to knock the price down quite a bit lower. Garments are made in Liaoning, China, by the Dayang Group and ship to the US in 3-4 weeks.
Proper Cloth
While they do have showrooms in New York City, the vast majority of the business is done online. Proper Cloth is a software company that happens to sell you suits. And they’re pretty good at it.
There isn’t a fancy-schmancy video guide, but you can dial in 3 fits or build a custom size.
Suit model names like “Allen” and “Mercer” should be a giveaway your garment will be made to a preexisting pattern.
But, you’ll get great fabrics-anything from the workhorse VBC Super 110s to a rather luxurious Loro Piana Super 150s.
Patterns and textures for both suiting and sport coats are rather muted but supremely versatile.
Prices start at $695 and go up to around $1500 for the super luxe stuff. But I’d expect to spend between $900 and $1100 for the best value.
If you’d like a full guide, check this one out here.
Hockerty
Hockerty’s measurements are fewer than others, 10, as opposed to 15. But, they cover the basics.
Originally “Tailor 4 Less”, Hockerty does get quite a bit of coverage on this website. Brock detailed his experience a number of years back, as did Ryan more recently.
A couple of years back, I was sent two poor-quality suits as samples. The jacket hems were completely different lengths!
After quite a long time (literal months) of back and forth trying to give them a fair shake to get the garments remade, I, like Brock, threw in the towel. For Ryan to get a coat made, it took over 40 emails back and forth. (And, in the end, the lapels were still the wrong style.)
When considering our results, remember that all three of us had previous MTM experiences and write about menswear professionally.
Suit pricing covers a wide range, as little as $299 up to $769 for a Loro Piana suit. However, given experiences from the three of us, Hockerty is a risk you want to avoid.
Spier & Mackay
Toronto-based Spier & Mackay burst onto the scene a decade or so ago by taking classic styling and world-renowned fabrics and offering them at almost suspiciously low prices.
I did a review for them about 18 months back. I think it’s an excellent value, and the styling is superb. However, they’re transparent upfront: Made to order garments are modified versions of their OTR sizing, and they don’t offer returns.
You really need to know your sizing and measurements to get the right fit. It may not be the best option if you’re a particularly unusual size.
The rendering engine isn’t much-you kind of have to picture in your mind what a garment will look like.
But, when you get it right, you get it right- the value (a lot of suits sit between $500 and $800) and the versatility of the styling might just be among the best in menswear right now.
Oliver Wicks
Oliver Wicks makes in Sofia, Bulgaria — a secret tailoring hotbed. Designs range from classic and versatile to rather loud and daring.
It’s a niche favorite in this space. Brock had a great experience a number of years back.
I had the opportunity to shoot a campaign with the brand a number of years back. The fabrics were excellent and very easy to style. However, I struggled to get a good fit in the end. In particular, the shoulder sat a little square for what I prefer.
Pricing is in a competitive position with suits ranging from $699 to $899 for some excellent fabrics. And with 365 days for alterations covered, you’ve got pretty low risk as a client.
Suitsupply
Suitsupply is known for more than just loud advertising. They’ve also got a decent made to measure suiting program. I’ll admit it’s been a few years since I’ve looked into them.
It appears, though, that they have evolved from the earlier renderings of basically slapping a custom lining into one of their standard suit models.
At the time of this writing, there are just over 300 fabrics to choose from. Suits cost between $670 and $1470, but there are upcharges for full canvas suiting.
The rendering engine is quite slick. But I’m more impressed by the ability to dial in little details like hip and bicep width in your jacket.
Delivery is between two and three weeks. But, as always, I’d budget a little more time.
For best results, visit an SS store in person.
Is Made To Measure Suiting Worth It?
In one word, “yes”. While it may take a few tries to get it right, the ability to dial in something uniquely yours is very much worth the time and energy to do so. When given the option, it’s where I’ll always lean.
This may be a whiff of wistful nostalgia, but there is something about a made to measure program that brings us a little closer to the past, when all clothing was custom.
Ultimately, you’re paying as much for an experience as you are for a product. That’s why, whenever possible, I’d recommend getting measured at the atelier.
But, if you can’t get to a location, finding a virtual fitting option instead of just plugging some measurements into an algorithm is the next best thing.
In the end, though, this is a fun time for guys. Sip the whiskey they sometimes give you. Flip through the fabrics books. Ask the questions. Enjoy the process.
Thanks for reading.
If you have questions or comments leave them below!
