Why were men’s hairstyles in the ‘20s so iconic? I’ll tell you everything you need to know!
The Roaring ‘20s was a time of social change. Mass entertainment and the consumer economy rocked society in a way that we didn’t see again until, arguably, the internet age. Then there was American prohibition. Rebellion and subversion were already in vogue.
What better opportunity to participate in mass disobedience than a new set of rules rife for breaking?
Relatedly, menswear became more casual and less regimented. Men’s hairstyles in the ‘20s did as well but in a different way. Gents weren’t just flat-parting their manes. Coiffes got coiffier, and a lot of styles got downright architectural.
Some might say that we’re still in this tradition of men’s hair even today. Let’s dive into Jazz Age tress protocols and decide for ourselves.
Men’s Hairstyles of the ‘20s
The most common hairstyle base was a simple slicked-back look, with the sides kept short. This is still popular today with varying degrees of length differences (and gradualness) between your hair on top versus the shorter sides.
From this base, men expressed themselves in different ways.
High-Class Looks
The more conservative looks stuck to that base design. You’d use either an oil-based or wax-based hair product to slick your hair back. Sophisticated urban professionals often sported a close-to-head “helmet” of hair with tons of shine.
Another high-class look, a more stately “man of leisure” style, might include a part in the hair. Whether the part was the middle or the side, you’d create a sort of winged silhouette, the part serving as the middle point of a W shape. King George V wore his hair this way.
Rudolf Valentino did something in the middle of these two approaches. His hair was perfectly slicked back, exposing his natural hairline. However, he’d part his high-shine, perfectly polished locks on the side.
Valentino was one of the world’s biggest and most influential movie stars.
And with the era’s distribution of mass entertainment, for the first time, men looked to these performers for style inspiration. Of course, this dynamic continues to this very day.
And to this day, that cosmopolitan hairstyle is called the Valentino.
The Serviceman
An edgier approach, the look you’d often see on gangster characters in period movies, is buzzing the sides completely. I’ve seen this look short-handed as “the serviceman” since you have to buzz your hair in the military. This means it can also have a disciplined aesthetic about it, depending on who’s sporting it.
All of these looks were hat-friendly since headwear was extremely common in the 1920s.
Self-Expression in the Roaring ‘20s
Even more, men got pretty vampy with their hair, too. Some men added a lot of height to their hair, creating an almost horn-like effect. F. Scott Fitzgerald often parted his hair in the middle, then shaped each side to curve upwards from the part. Can’t put a hat over that!
Some might argue that this closer-to-God look foreran the pompadour style that Elvis popularized in the ‘50s.
Other more expressive things men did include adding waves and even letting a few loose curls dangle every so often. It was this era’s version of the bedhead look. This was revolutionary because prior to the ‘20s, even men with curly and wavy hair often tamed their locks with flat irons.
Meanwhile, finger waves were usually reserved for women. Not so in the ‘20s.
Women’s changing style in the 1920s often gets more of the spotlight when it comes to the era’s gender-bending.
Admittedly, the style journey women take from the turn of the century into the ‘20s was more dramatic. Everyone has a picture in their head of what a flapper is. But as you can see, there were still components of challenging what men could and couldn’t do.
This was the precursor to the “messy” Clark Gable hair of the ‘30s. And by messy, I’m talking about that one or two perfectly curated, non-moving tendrils that would hang on the side of his head.
1920s Hairstyles for Men: A Quick How-to
Going to a theme party or just interested in a more vintage look? Here’s how your forefathers did their hair in the 1920s.
Thoroughly oil your hair. Or, go for pomade or even a little hair gel, depending on how stiff you want it to be. Make sure the ends are perfectly coated with the product.
Then, do one of two things.
You can comb the top of your hair back so that the ends aren’t seen from the front at all. Then comb the sides back, doing the exact same thing you did to the ends on top. Once all of the ends meet at the back, flatten it with your hand.
Or you can create a part. From there, in one smooth action, you’ll comb each side to the side, then swiftly to the back.
From here, you can apply any of the style accents, like finger waves or extra height (fortunately, we have hair dryers in the modern age to help with this).
What About Facial Hair?
Men’s facial hair ranged widely in the 1920s. However, thanks to technological innovations with men’s facial razors, a cleanly shaven face became more and more popular.
The most ubiquitous look is probably the skinny mustache. Ironically, more men probably wore a more natural, fuzzier mustache. But the slick skinny composition started in the ‘20s and continued to be popular well into the ‘30s and even ‘40s.
In fact, it’s mostly associated with leading man Clark Gable and vintage horror actor Vincent Price, both of whom became big stars in the 1930s (though they were young men in the ‘20s).
Their version was less slick and more natural-looking, meaning less like a stereotypical Vaudevillian villain. But it was still clean-lined and skinny.
Other styles included goatees and handlebar mustaches.
You’ll often find photos of old men in the era sporting full beards, but they weren’t very common among the younger set.
FAQs
Still curious about men’s hairstyles in the 1920s? Here are some common questions.
What Hair Product Did Men Use in the 1920s?
Men often used oil or styling waxes. Styling waxes were usually made with beeswax or lanolin (otherwise known as the stuff you use on your boots), while oil products, like the popular Brilliantine, gave a shinier look.
What Was the Popular Hairstyle of the 1920s?
A clean, slicked-back style was popular. Men preferred their sides shorter and the top longer. However, waves became more common in the ‘20s as well.
Did Men Wear Finger Waves?
Yes, men and women both wore finger waves in the 1920s. Though unisex fashion had a long way to go, it was the start of the intermingling between men’s and women’s styles, especially for women.
Conclusion: The Legacy of ‘20s Slicked-Back Hair
Once you really dig into it, you really start to see that men’s hairstyles of the ‘20s made a huge impact.
To this day, a lot of men prefer shorter sides and a longer top. The undercut went in and out of style starting in the late ‘90s and early aughts before landing in the classic realm today.
Are you a fan of vintage style? Do you incorporate old looks to the way you wear your hair? We’d love to know!
